The Nakasendo Trail, gifu-Nagano, Japan
november 2023
The Nakasendo Trail, Gifu-Nagano Prefectures, Japan - November 2023
The Nakasendo Trail was a key communications routeway during the Edo Period (1603-1863) and a way for the Shogunate to maintain order and peace between Kyoto and Tokyo. The trail linked 64 post-towns as officials and traders plied their way back and forth staying at inns along the way. Maintaining the trail was the job of the local Daimyo (feudal lord). The part following the Kiso Valley which begins in Gifu Prefecture contains eleven former post-towns as it makes its way through lush, forested scenery. Also known as the Samurai Trail, the section between Magome-Juku and Tsumago-Juku is just 7.5 kms long and a hugely popular hike for modern-day visitors. The towns themselves have gone out of their way to maintain their historic feel with electricity and water connections all below ground.
When plotting your trip you have to consider which way round to do it and where you will stay at the end of the day. There is actually a baggage service that will pick up your luggage at one end and drop it off for you at the other end. Clever! Looking at the map and the limited number of places to stay in the Kiso Valley (probably with prices to reflect that), it was easier to stay in Matsumoto, a couple of hours up the track, then return there at the end of the day. Besides, Matsumoto is well placed for other trips out in Nagano Prefecture.
As for the trail itself, it is a bit up and down, but nothing too strenuous. Allowing 3-4 hours should be ample, with a couple of sit-downs along the way. Your imagination can run wild when you consider that you are walking in the very steps of Samurai – what would you do if you saw one approaching? It sounds like the premise for a film or a series.
Unfortunately, you aren’t the first to come up with the idea. If you go to Samuari Gourmet on Netflix you will encounter this very scenario. I have always loved this show but have been slow to recommend it for fear of it being poo-pooed by the cognoscenti (not that I know any). It features a newly retired man whose wife is always off out doing things. At a loose end every day, he wanders the suburbs looking for a lunch spot. Each episode features a different kind of cuisine, often with him recalling fond memories from his youth which are triggered by some dish or other. Exciting, eh? The twist comes as invariably he gets into some jam or scrape then imagines how a Samurai would deal with it. Cue – the exact situation is created in his imagination but with the characters in period costume, while he watches on as an unseen observer. He is of course, meek and mild by nature, allowing him to gaze admiringly as the Samurai prevails in a rough and ready manner. This leaves him quietly contented as he makes his way home. When he gets home his wife says, ‘What did you get up to today?’ And he always replies, ‘Oh, nothing’ as he chuckles to himself, basking in the glow of his ersatz adventure.
When I told Japanese colleagues at work about this programme, they quickly said, ‘Oh, Naoto Takenata, the famous comedian, singer and director!’ Like, everyone in Japan appears to be familiar with his work – I did think he was good! I don’t know why, but I have always found the series to be endearing. And of course, walking the Samurai Trail I was able to prepare myself well for the sight of a Samurai walking over the crest with multiple endings to the show’s episodes up my sleeve and ready to draw on. Imagine!
So, two recommendations here – The Nakasendo Trail and Samurai Gourmet. Preferably experienced in tandem.
The Nakasendo Trail was a key communications routeway during the Edo Period (1603-1863) and a way for the Shogunate to maintain order and peace between Kyoto and Tokyo. The trail linked 64 post-towns as officials and traders plied their way back and forth staying at inns along the way. Maintaining the trail was the job of the local Daimyo (feudal lord). The part following the Kiso Valley which begins in Gifu Prefecture contains eleven former post-towns as it makes its way through lush, forested scenery. Also known as the Samurai Trail, the section between Magome-Juku and Tsumago-Juku is just 7.5 kms long and a hugely popular hike for modern-day visitors. The towns themselves have gone out of their way to maintain their historic feel with electricity and water connections all below ground.
When plotting your trip you have to consider which way round to do it and where you will stay at the end of the day. There is actually a baggage service that will pick up your luggage at one end and drop it off for you at the other end. Clever! Looking at the map and the limited number of places to stay in the Kiso Valley (probably with prices to reflect that), it was easier to stay in Matsumoto, a couple of hours up the track, then return there at the end of the day. Besides, Matsumoto is well placed for other trips out in Nagano Prefecture.
As for the trail itself, it is a bit up and down, but nothing too strenuous. Allowing 3-4 hours should be ample, with a couple of sit-downs along the way. Your imagination can run wild when you consider that you are walking in the very steps of Samurai – what would you do if you saw one approaching? It sounds like the premise for a film or a series.
Unfortunately, you aren’t the first to come up with the idea. If you go to Samuari Gourmet on Netflix you will encounter this very scenario. I have always loved this show but have been slow to recommend it for fear of it being poo-pooed by the cognoscenti (not that I know any). It features a newly retired man whose wife is always off out doing things. At a loose end every day, he wanders the suburbs looking for a lunch spot. Each episode features a different kind of cuisine, often with him recalling fond memories from his youth which are triggered by some dish or other. Exciting, eh? The twist comes as invariably he gets into some jam or scrape then imagines how a Samurai would deal with it. Cue – the exact situation is created in his imagination but with the characters in period costume, while he watches on as an unseen observer. He is of course, meek and mild by nature, allowing him to gaze admiringly as the Samurai prevails in a rough and ready manner. This leaves him quietly contented as he makes his way home. When he gets home his wife says, ‘What did you get up to today?’ And he always replies, ‘Oh, nothing’ as he chuckles to himself, basking in the glow of his ersatz adventure.
When I told Japanese colleagues at work about this programme, they quickly said, ‘Oh, Naoto Takenata, the famous comedian, singer and director!’ Like, everyone in Japan appears to be familiar with his work – I did think he was good! I don’t know why, but I have always found the series to be endearing. And of course, walking the Samurai Trail I was able to prepare myself well for the sight of a Samurai walking over the crest with multiple endings to the show’s episodes up my sleeve and ready to draw on. Imagine!
So, two recommendations here – The Nakasendo Trail and Samurai Gourmet. Preferably experienced in tandem.
RSS Feed