Karuizawa, November 2017
Karuizawa, November 2017
Karuizawa is easy to get to, being just one hour away from Tokyo by Shinkansen. It is in the south-east corner of Nagano Prefecture and has a history that goes way back to Edo times and the Nakasendo Trail which linked Kyoto and Tokyo. It sure has a lot going for it, being a popular summer retreat as well as a base for winter sports. It is also the sort of place that the rich and famous, including Imperial family members, keep an out-of-town villa. Although the town has a population of only 20,000, and feels like a village when walking around, it is geared towards welcoming an impressive 8.5 million visitors annually.
When I decided to check it out, I wasn't really aware of its history or its popularity, I had just read that it was a good place to experience the autumn leaves, so marked it down for a day-trip. The centre of town was as described above, just a high street with a few thoroughfares off it. The shops were mostly the sort of places that traded off tourism, but of course it has the usual civic buildings too, which I became aware of later. I had read that for walks amongst the falling leaves, you head down towards Kumobaike Pond so, station-kiosk map in hand, off I went.
The walk down to the pond takes you past the front gates of many private residences, so you get a taste of how the other half lives. Many of the buildings date from some time ago, giving the impression that it would be cold and damp inside during the off-season. Perhaps many have their contents mothballed as they wait for the summer months. For sure, there didn’t appear to be a lot going on in the front yards on this dank November morning, with only the occasional car parked outside. Arriving at the actual ponds you won’t be disappointed with the photo opportunities. Your main challenge will be framing your pictures without crowds of people coming into view – or worse, a lone walker straying into your otherwise perfect shot.
This particular day out produced a veritable portfolio of pleasing photos, not just to look back on, but also to practise photo-editing with. One particular view can be found frequently online, in fact an Alamy stock photo looked so similar to one of mine that I had to double-check its date to see if it actually was mine (I am pleased to report that although the composition was identical, mine was less saturated). Looking further afield I can see that winter down by the pond is also a very photogenic setting and one which will definitely make its way onto my future calendar.
Much later, while scrolling through Japanese film options on Netflix I spotted a series called ‘Quartet’ which was set in Karuizawa. It is always interesting when you see a film whose location is in a place that you know, or even partially know. You find yourself remarking, mid-film, 'I know where that is,' or 'I've been there!' while feeling mildly pleased with yourself. I enjoyed the show which explored inter-personal relationships in that idiosyncratic Japanese way. The protagonists were all musicians seeking to overcome previous setbacks and perform to a high standard, even if only once. The fact that they were classical musicians also ramped up the quirky factor; predictably, each had a troubled story to tell and secrets to keep. In a wooden house out in the sticks by Karuizawa the storylines played out, as did the peripheral aspects of the town itself, thus filling in the gaps that a daytrip obviously leaves.
Watching the episodes of Quartet, I also thought that Hikari Matsushima, who played the cellist, seemed familiar and then I remembered ‘First Love’ another captivating Japanese series set this time in Hokkaido. Sure enough, she was the lead in that endearing drama whose eponymous theme was well captured, but with a twist (watch it to find out what). Talent abounds in her case; she can also be seen singing and dancing on Mondo Grosso hits (YouTube - Labyrinth - 40 million plus views). I wonder what she will turn her hand to next? Not cello, as she was miming, or so I read. Having said that, all four actor-players looked pretty convincing to me.
That’s my Kariuzawa, just a short visit but with the appetite certainly whetted! One of the six JR East Rail Pass options next time would certainly work.
Below: Hikari Matsushima
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