The mass tourism that arrived at Bali's beaches from the late 80s onwards had a hugely adverse effect. Heavy traffic hindered movement within towns and the beaches themselves lost their carefree vibe. North of Denpasar is the town of Ubud, a cultural centre known for Balinese arts: painting, music and dance. It has also been home to many foreign artists who set up studios there. It is still a great place to relax and soak up the culture, where you can catch traditional dance and music performances nightly. You can also use it as a base to explore Bali's interior.
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Balinese dance reveals stories from ancient Hindu tradition. Legong dance is performed by young teens whilst the Kecak dance is an exciting trance-dance incorporating monkey chants. Also try to catch a Jegog performance - these ensembles play instruments that are made from bamboo, and are unique to Bali.
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Rice terraces - there is nothing like Bali green!