Seoul and the South Korean people are riding the crest of a wave with their pop-culture output. The world has embraced K-Pop and K-TV Series like never before. There have been incremental gains (the Wonder Girls took off circa 2009-11 after all), but now the confidence can be felt on the streets, if not our TV screens. Seoul also celebrates its history, traditions and cuisine, which makes it a fascinating place to visit. The ongoing conflict to the north is never far away either, national conscription is a still very much in play.

Gyeongbokgung Palace is impressive enough, but there was a huge pageant the day we visited, I suspect that it was the Changing of the Guard ceremony. How often this happens, I don't know.

Gwangjang food market will assault your taste-buds, and a Korean BBQ is definite must. Go for a set to make sure you get all the correct side dishes.

Above and Below: Gwangjang Food Market

Above and Below: The Demilitarized Zone