Like many provincial capitals in Thailand the approach roads to the city reveal the usual industrial and commercial sprawl laced with fast traffic – jams notwithstanding. All of this belies Phitsanulok’s status as a true historical city. It was originally called Song Kwae in reference to its position between two rivers and was already an established centre during Angkorian time. Then, in 1378, it became the seat of power of the Sukhothai Kingdom and remained prominent during the Ayutthaya period. It was destroyed by the Burmese after 1775 and remained in ruins through much of the 19th century before recovering to become the new regional centre from 1894.

The Buddha casting factory.