Gallery 5
The process is indeed a great prompt for recollections...
1. Above: Nagasaki, Kyushu, Japan
Nagasaki was the trading post open to foreigners when Japan was off-limits to the rest of the world. There is a re-creation of a 17th century Portuguese and Dutch island cantonment to which foreigners were confined. There are also old 19th century residences of foreign traders on a hill overlooking the sound. The town sits inside a bowl surrounded by hills, ideal for shipping over the years, and finally as a target for events solemnly commemorated in the Atomic Bomb Museum.
Nagasaki was the trading post open to foreigners when Japan was off-limits to the rest of the world. There is a re-creation of a 17th century Portuguese and Dutch island cantonment to which foreigners were confined. There are also old 19th century residences of foreign traders on a hill overlooking the sound. The town sits inside a bowl surrounded by hills, ideal for shipping over the years, and finally as a target for events solemnly commemorated in the Atomic Bomb Museum.
2. Above: Kemigawahama, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Kemigawahama, the place where I lived in Japan, was everything you need to know about suburban Japan. It had utility housing like old Soviet featureless blocks, a supermarket, its own station (practically everywhere has one), almost no restaurants and definitely no bars – in fact, everyone was indoors by 8pm. And yet… the community was strong, tending the roadside verges, arranging park festivals and best of all the night-watch. This was a group of about five old-timers who roamed the streets with a hand-held lamp while periodically banging sticks together to let you know that everything was well and the area was safe this evening. What they would have done if some baddies turned up, we can only guess at!
Kemigawahama, the place where I lived in Japan, was everything you need to know about suburban Japan. It had utility housing like old Soviet featureless blocks, a supermarket, its own station (practically everywhere has one), almost no restaurants and definitely no bars – in fact, everyone was indoors by 8pm. And yet… the community was strong, tending the roadside verges, arranging park festivals and best of all the night-watch. This was a group of about five old-timers who roamed the streets with a hand-held lamp while periodically banging sticks together to let you know that everything was well and the area was safe this evening. What they would have done if some baddies turned up, we can only guess at!
3. Above: Louang Prabang, Laos
With its old French colonial buildings and compact lay-out, this former capital and UNESCO World Heritage site is perfect for walking around. You will likely be taking in the night market, sampling the coffee or just chilling by the Mekong River. It used to be a bit of a slog by bus from Vientiane along the single lane Highway 13 (the reverse trip on my bicycle took me four days with stops). Now the Laos-China railway makes it a three-and-a-half-hour journey. Imagine that, whatever next?
With its old French colonial buildings and compact lay-out, this former capital and UNESCO World Heritage site is perfect for walking around. You will likely be taking in the night market, sampling the coffee or just chilling by the Mekong River. It used to be a bit of a slog by bus from Vientiane along the single lane Highway 13 (the reverse trip on my bicycle took me four days with stops). Now the Laos-China railway makes it a three-and-a-half-hour journey. Imagine that, whatever next?
4. Above: Sakura, Japan
The cherry blossom (Sakura) season has great meaning in Japan, not just for the symbolism of the blossoms themselves, but also for the social aspect of picnicking under the trees – this is known as hanami. What you don’t realise until you have been local for a couple of years is that the full bloom is over within the space of about seven days. It is very easy to miss while at work, or for some malevolent storm to render the view merely a sorry and soggy mess of petals strewn over the ground. If you get your viewing right the whole thing is a joy to behold, as evidenced by the photo-hordes!
The cherry blossom (Sakura) season has great meaning in Japan, not just for the symbolism of the blossoms themselves, but also for the social aspect of picnicking under the trees – this is known as hanami. What you don’t realise until you have been local for a couple of years is that the full bloom is over within the space of about seven days. It is very easy to miss while at work, or for some malevolent storm to render the view merely a sorry and soggy mess of petals strewn over the ground. If you get your viewing right the whole thing is a joy to behold, as evidenced by the photo-hordes!
5. Above: Happy & Healthy Bike Lane, Bangkok
I had spied the blue cycle track round Suvarnabhumi Airport several times when taking off, so was determined to give it a go. Once registered and given a wristband you are free to go, starting with a wrist-beep of the electronic gates. The track is a kind of tartan-spray-on blue, with toilet-drinks stops every 6 kms as you make your way round the full 25 kms. There seemed to be a regular crowd there of folks with expensive equipment, they were all taking an après coffee as we were setting out. The experience? 50:50 I’d say, a bit uninspiring landscape-wise. Mind you, this was just after covid, so there were few planes to excite, and signs saying, ‘no drafting’. I mean! I assume 'Happy & Healthy' sounds better in Thai?!
I had spied the blue cycle track round Suvarnabhumi Airport several times when taking off, so was determined to give it a go. Once registered and given a wristband you are free to go, starting with a wrist-beep of the electronic gates. The track is a kind of tartan-spray-on blue, with toilet-drinks stops every 6 kms as you make your way round the full 25 kms. There seemed to be a regular crowd there of folks with expensive equipment, they were all taking an après coffee as we were setting out. The experience? 50:50 I’d say, a bit uninspiring landscape-wise. Mind you, this was just after covid, so there were few planes to excite, and signs saying, ‘no drafting’. I mean! I assume 'Happy & Healthy' sounds better in Thai?!
6. Above: Okinawa, Japan
Okinawa for a week or so was a disappointment. Probably because we stayed on the main island rather than the outlying tropical islands, besides the weather was largely overcast. The highlight (a rather sombre one) was a visit to the Peace Memorial Park south of Naha. Here, over 240,000 names of those who lost their lives in the Battle of Okinawa, are inscribed in the zig-zag granite memorials. The names are in Japanese, Korean or English script according to the deceased's nationalities. A very sobering experience with the Cornerstone of Peace providing a focal point.
Okinawa for a week or so was a disappointment. Probably because we stayed on the main island rather than the outlying tropical islands, besides the weather was largely overcast. The highlight (a rather sombre one) was a visit to the Peace Memorial Park south of Naha. Here, over 240,000 names of those who lost their lives in the Battle of Okinawa, are inscribed in the zig-zag granite memorials. The names are in Japanese, Korean or English script according to the deceased's nationalities. A very sobering experience with the Cornerstone of Peace providing a focal point.
7. Above: Kamakura, Japan
Kamakura is south of Yokohama, so an easy day trip from Tokyo. It is famed for the giant outdoor copper Buddha and shrine. Travelling there on a public holiday was a bit of an adventure, with seemingly half of the population of Tokyo having had the same idea that morning. Japan being Japan, they sure know how to organise though, attendants with megaphones were on hand to help everyone shuffle up the stairs and along the platform to get the train. It really was cheek by jowl as the crowd stayed in step, in rows, in an impressively choreographed procedure. Clickers clicked authoritatively as a set number were at last released group-by-group to calmly move forward to fill up the train.
8. Above: Yod Phu Tok, (Three Whale Rock), Thailand
What used to be a sweaty hike for a few hours up and back, is now a straightforward dash in your own personal baht-bus. The new concrete road up through the trees means that any level of physical fitness will suffice. Once up there on Three Whale Rock, you do need to be steady on your feet if you don’t want to disappear into the void. Let’s face it, falling off the cliff is also now a cinch, especially while going back-a-bit, back-a-bit for your selfie. Or even the group lemming impression as you are all busy looking up and waving for the drone photo. Great trip but keep checking that windsock!
9. Above: Cycling in Cambodia
Cycling from Saigon to Phnom Penh and later onwards to Thailand in 2005 was a trial. The civil war had only ended in 1997 so the country really wasn’t yet back on its feet. Cycling along Highway 1 it all looked a bit grim, save for the children racing to the side of the road to yell, ‘Sabaidee’. The hovercraft connection between Sihanoukville and Hat Yai in Thailand was a nightmare; the monsoon seas ensuring that everyone was a whimpering wreck when they disembarked. I was surprised that the bike was still strapped to the top. I notice that now those rust-buckets no longer operate. Surprise!
10. Above: Baan Dam, Thailand
The Black House Museum (Baan Dam) just outside Chiang Rai is a weird one. The brainchild of artist, Thawan Duchanee, the site has been in development for fifty years. The Goth vibe comes from all manner of strange things on display. Imagine being inside one of the spooky houses when a torrential downpour necessitates all the windows and doors being shut tight. Sitting there in the half-light surrounded by skeletons and things. Skeletons of what? Don’t even ask.
11. Above: Geisha Lite, Japan
When you walk around Kyoto you often see folks in traditional Japanese costumes – foreigners as well as locals. The idea is that you sign up for a photo-session and are then allowed time for walkabout. Great fun. For my 60th I flew my daughters to Tokyo where we booked in for one such session. The whole thing, including make-up and fittings took about four hours. At the end of it you are given a couple of CDs containing hundreds of shots.
12. Above: Thai Shopping Malls
When I first visited Thailand in 1981 there was a TV jingle which went: ‘Bi ni? Bi ni? Bi Metro’. Basically, where are you going? Going to Metro. That being the main shopping mall, or more likely a department store. Now, top of the range malls are everywhere to be found in the metropolis of Bangkok. And not just Bangkok, any town of reasonable size has a Central Plaza. Boy, do the high-end ones go to town with the décor, particularly leading up to Christmas, Chinese New Year or any of the local festivals. Santa’s helpers in Central World certainly had a local vibe, the elves didn't get a look-in!
13. Above: The Blue Wat, Chanthaburi Province, Thailand
Wat Paknam Kaem Nu (Blue Wat) is a forty-five-minute drive south-west of Chanthaburi town. The exterior of the original wat built in 1946 corroded due to the sea air. It was then decided to make a cladding of ceramic tiles, especially designed for the setting. The finished article would do the city of Delft proud. It is simply jaw-dropping standing up close or even 50 metres away, although your camera’s viewfinder will have crowds to contend with for the latter choice.
14. Above: Cycling in Japan
The first time I went to Japan I was a bit taken aback that you are not allowed to take a bike on a train unless it is in a bag. Living there brings understanding. The basic MO of getting to work is riding your bike to the train station and leaving it in one of the many bike-parks. Some are even multi-story where you put your bike up on a rack at eye-level. It all makes sense. If you leave your bike up against a wall somewhere you will be looking for it later at the local police compound. Things don’t get stolen in Japan – well, just bikes and umbrellas, and these are merely borrowed out of necessity.
15. Above: Phu Chi Fah, Chiang Rai Province, Thailand
Phu Chi Fah is a mountain range in the eastern part of Chiang Rai Province. It is famed for the views from its peaks looking over to Laos. Particularly popular is sunrise following a dawn start from a carpark twenty minutes down the slope. Unfortunately, the season that I was there just didn’t present any clear views. It was atmospheric with the wind and rain battering the resort throughout the night, but it was a long drive just for a typical Thai summer storm!
Phu Chi Fah is a mountain range in the eastern part of Chiang Rai Province. It is famed for the views from its peaks looking over to Laos. Particularly popular is sunrise following a dawn start from a carpark twenty minutes down the slope. Unfortunately, the season that I was there just didn’t present any clear views. It was atmospheric with the wind and rain battering the resort throughout the night, but it was a long drive just for a typical Thai summer storm!
16. Above: Kaeng Khoi, Saraburi Province, Thailand
Boy is the KiHa 183 train an ugly duckling! But the more you look at it, the more a strange beauty forms before your gaze, and your camera just won’t leave it alone. The trains, donated by JR Hokkaido are used for excursions and are hugely popular. This trip to Kaeng Khoi commemorated those who lost their lives in an Allied WWII bombing raid. The event takes place over two days at the beginning of April each year, with the period dress adding to the occasion.
Boy is the KiHa 183 train an ugly duckling! But the more you look at it, the more a strange beauty forms before your gaze, and your camera just won’t leave it alone. The trains, donated by JR Hokkaido are used for excursions and are hugely popular. This trip to Kaeng Khoi commemorated those who lost their lives in an Allied WWII bombing raid. The event takes place over two days at the beginning of April each year, with the period dress adding to the occasion.
17. Above: Mount Takao, Japan
Mount Takao is an easy day trip from Tokyo. Once there you can choose from several walking trails to hike up, or get a head start by taking the chairlift. As is often the case at weekends, everyone and his dog seemed to have had the same idea that morning. The wait for the chairlift was over one hour. Once up there, competing with the throngs, you could see the attraction especially during autumn. The crowning glory, besides the wonderful foliage, was the observation deck from which you can see Fuji-san silhouetted in the distance.
Mount Takao is an easy day trip from Tokyo. Once there you can choose from several walking trails to hike up, or get a head start by taking the chairlift. As is often the case at weekends, everyone and his dog seemed to have had the same idea that morning. The wait for the chairlift was over one hour. Once up there, competing with the throngs, you could see the attraction especially during autumn. The crowning glory, besides the wonderful foliage, was the observation deck from which you can see Fuji-san silhouetted in the distance.
18. Above: Wiang Kum Kam, Chiang Mai, Thailand
Wiang Kum Kam in Chiang Mai is also known as the ‘ruined city’. The former Mon capital dating from the thirteenth century is thought to have been abandoned following repeated flooding. In fact, the site can still be flooded when the Ping River bursts its banks. The road to the ancient city adjoins the modern-day airport road, so it is easy to drive straight past the entrance as I did many times. The wat on the site it still working, with monks resident there.
Wiang Kum Kam in Chiang Mai is also known as the ‘ruined city’. The former Mon capital dating from the thirteenth century is thought to have been abandoned following repeated flooding. In fact, the site can still be flooded when the Ping River bursts its banks. The road to the ancient city adjoins the modern-day airport road, so it is easy to drive straight past the entrance as I did many times. The wat on the site it still working, with monks resident there.
19. Above: Phu Kradeung, Loei Province, Thailand
Phu Kradeung is a plateau in Loei Province. It is a tough climb, no two ways about it. Expect 4-5 hours strain on your knees going up, even worse on the way down, but on your toes. You can pay porters 30 baht/kilo to take excess stuff. Just as well! Once up there the hired camping gear and bikes take care of the trips: sunrise at dawn, cliffs, and overhanging ledges. This is an exhausting although exhilarating trip which will leave your legs like jelly for the rest of the week.
Phu Kradeung is a plateau in Loei Province. It is a tough climb, no two ways about it. Expect 4-5 hours strain on your knees going up, even worse on the way down, but on your toes. You can pay porters 30 baht/kilo to take excess stuff. Just as well! Once up there the hired camping gear and bikes take care of the trips: sunrise at dawn, cliffs, and overhanging ledges. This is an exhausting although exhilarating trip which will leave your legs like jelly for the rest of the week.
20. Above: Hiroshima, Japan
Exiting the station in Hiroshima following my map I was confident that I would find the Peace Memorial fairly easily. Having walked straight out of the wrong exit, it didn’t exactly go to plan. Later, strolling along the riverside in the spring sunshine past boughs laden with sakura and office workers snacking from their lunchboxes, it was difficult to fathom it all. What had gone before and what it was like now was scarcely believable. All you could do was quietly contemplate, there was simply nothing to say as you took it all in. The museum was busy that day, also busy with silent people.
Exiting the station in Hiroshima following my map I was confident that I would find the Peace Memorial fairly easily. Having walked straight out of the wrong exit, it didn’t exactly go to plan. Later, strolling along the riverside in the spring sunshine past boughs laden with sakura and office workers snacking from their lunchboxes, it was difficult to fathom it all. What had gone before and what it was like now was scarcely believable. All you could do was quietly contemplate, there was simply nothing to say as you took it all in. The museum was busy that day, also busy with silent people.