Gallery 14
A trip round the Tohoku Region in northern Honshu Island, Japan. Plus some more observations on Thailand.
1. Above: Hirosaki Castle Sakura at Night
Hirosaki Castle night-time Sakura is the cherry tree on the cake, as it were. Just like any sunset, you can’t wait to snap away in the fading light but by the time true night arrives your earlier shots will likely all look rather tepid. The clincher for framing your blossom-lit shots will be the reflections in the lakes and moats. Standby to create your very own personal set of postcards. As with a daytime visit in late April, you will be crammed into a train and bus both ways in the one-hour journey from Aomori, but it is worth it as you partake of a carnival atmosphere to remember.
Hirosaki Castle night-time Sakura is the cherry tree on the cake, as it were. Just like any sunset, you can’t wait to snap away in the fading light but by the time true night arrives your earlier shots will likely all look rather tepid. The clincher for framing your blossom-lit shots will be the reflections in the lakes and moats. Standby to create your very own personal set of postcards. As with a daytime visit in late April, you will be crammed into a train and bus both ways in the one-hour journey from Aomori, but it is worth it as you partake of a carnival atmosphere to remember.
2. Above: Ginzan Onsen
Ginzan Onsen is a picturesque town astride the Ginzan River up in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture. It owes its origins to silver mining centuries ago which also led to the discovery of the hot-water springs. Once the silver had been exhausted, the town made a name for itself as an onsen resort; the current guest houses and onsen date from the 1920s. Now you will be paying top-dollar to stay overnight and take in the gas lantern-lit film setting experience. Without your own car it will likely be a two-hour train and bus trip from the city of Yamagata in the northern Tohoku region. Worth it, no question - you can even warm your feet up in the hot-springs troughs on the bridges.
Ginzan Onsen is a picturesque town astride the Ginzan River up in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture. It owes its origins to silver mining centuries ago which also led to the discovery of the hot-water springs. Once the silver had been exhausted, the town made a name for itself as an onsen resort; the current guest houses and onsen date from the 1920s. Now you will be paying top-dollar to stay overnight and take in the gas lantern-lit film setting experience. Without your own car it will likely be a two-hour train and bus trip from the city of Yamagata in the northern Tohoku region. Worth it, no question - you can even warm your feet up in the hot-springs troughs on the bridges.
3. Above: Nakano Broadway, Tokyo
Nakano is just another stop on the labyrinthine rail network that is Tokyo. Or it could be, but for the most splendid shopping arcade which begins as soon as you exit the station. Perhaps it was the additional colour provided by the Koinobori fish banners, or just the tint of the glass roof panels, but the vibe was well and truly uplifting, even for non-shoppers like me! Every few outlets served food or coffee as well, so it was definitely a win-win.
Nakano is just another stop on the labyrinthine rail network that is Tokyo. Or it could be, but for the most splendid shopping arcade which begins as soon as you exit the station. Perhaps it was the additional colour provided by the Koinobori fish banners, or just the tint of the glass roof panels, but the vibe was well and truly uplifting, even for non-shoppers like me! Every few outlets served food or coffee as well, so it was definitely a win-win.
4. Above: Kakunodate, Akita Prefecture
Kakunodate is famous for being the former Samurai stronghold in Akita Prefecture, with a whole street of Samurai residences preserved and open to the public. The other claim to fame is the weeping cherry trees which line the streets and are particularly attractive along the riverbank. Alas the trees were not yet in full-weep mode being half-way between bud and blossom on this visit in late April. Heavy rain for the day also dampened spirits rather, but being a Sunday there was a handsome crowd sploshing about. Brave souls were even paying 13,000 yen for an hour in a damp rickshaw - the rickshaw pullers wisely had waterproofing on their kasa or triangular straw hats. (Note: the blossoms bloomed three days later – boo!)
Kakunodate is famous for being the former Samurai stronghold in Akita Prefecture, with a whole street of Samurai residences preserved and open to the public. The other claim to fame is the weeping cherry trees which line the streets and are particularly attractive along the riverbank. Alas the trees were not yet in full-weep mode being half-way between bud and blossom on this visit in late April. Heavy rain for the day also dampened spirits rather, but being a Sunday there was a handsome crowd sploshing about. Brave souls were even paying 13,000 yen for an hour in a damp rickshaw - the rickshaw pullers wisely had waterproofing on their kasa or triangular straw hats. (Note: the blossoms bloomed three days later – boo!)
5. Above: Flower Festival, Chiang Mai
The Flower Festival takes place on the first weekend of February. Looking at the deep borders of all kinds of blooms, one is left admiring not just the pretty views at every turn, but also the parks department’s skill in getting everything looking so pristine all at the same time. While some blooms may last weeks or months, others such as tulips may last for 5-14 days, or less in warm weather. Full marks to the team for a top-top show. I wonder what it all looks like a month later?
The Flower Festival takes place on the first weekend of February. Looking at the deep borders of all kinds of blooms, one is left admiring not just the pretty views at every turn, but also the parks department’s skill in getting everything looking so pristine all at the same time. While some blooms may last weeks or months, others such as tulips may last for 5-14 days, or less in warm weather. Full marks to the team for a top-top show. I wonder what it all looks like a month later?
6. Above: Honda LPGA, Pattaya 2025
When you see a sport close-up that you have previously only seen on TV, things tend to jump out at you. Attending an event of pro-tennis, Formula One or even speedway leaves you with a new sense of the speed, skill or incredible reaction time of the top performers. With golf, what struck me was the lack of sound – no ‘thwack’ or ‘ping’ that the mic picks up on TV at the tee, and no following the ball through the air as it splits the fairway (can’t even see it). So, you are watching silently, save for the crowd applauding a near miss on the green (when in reality it wasn’t really that near, but looked it from a ground-level view). The players? Very impressive how they remain stoic, with a steely gaze as they set up after having had a horror-show at the previous hole.
When you see a sport close-up that you have previously only seen on TV, things tend to jump out at you. Attending an event of pro-tennis, Formula One or even speedway leaves you with a new sense of the speed, skill or incredible reaction time of the top performers. With golf, what struck me was the lack of sound – no ‘thwack’ or ‘ping’ that the mic picks up on TV at the tee, and no following the ball through the air as it splits the fairway (can’t even see it). So, you are watching silently, save for the crowd applauding a near miss on the green (when in reality it wasn’t really that near, but looked it from a ground-level view). The players? Very impressive how they remain stoic, with a steely gaze as they set up after having had a horror-show at the previous hole.
7. Above: Chofu, Tokyo
Chofu counts as its own city even though it is 20 kms from downtown Tokyo and part of the greater metropolis. As a suburban centre is retains a village feel though, attractions including the Jindai-ji Temple set in beautiful grounds, and Jinjai Botanical Gardens as well as the serene Fudaten Shrine. All of these make for a very pleasant afternoon visit, despite Chofu not making the regular ‘must-see’ lists. In Chofu you wouldn’t know you were in Tokyo really, and technically it isn’t one of the 23 inner Wards, so perhaps you aren’t.
8. Above: Morioka Castle, Hanami
Morioka Castle dating from the early 1600s was the seat if the Nanbu Clan who ruled over much of Tohoku. The grounds and surrounding Iwate Park were first opened to the public in 1906 and have since become a popular location for enjoying the spring cherry blossoms. ‘Hanami’ is the process of admiring the Sakura full bloom when families gather to picnic under the trees. At the top of the old castle ramparts in late April you can be sure to get the full effect – make sure you take a mat to sit on (and a bottle of wine by the look of it).
9. Above: Nebuta Festival, Aomori
The Nebuta Festival is held in Aomori in the first week of August and can attract two million spectators. The festival is comprised of up to twenty giant floats featuring Nebuta creations of illuminated, decorated paper over a wood and wire frame. Nebuta artists are much lauded, with only six ever being granted the title of ‘Master’. The festival owes it origins to the warding off of drowsiness caused by sleep demons, the natural enemy of the local farmers. Quite right, too! Previous Nebuta designs are on display in the Wa-Rasse, which is the city’s nebuta museum where you can appreciate the size of the 9 metre long and 3 metre tall behemoths.
10. Above: Hachimangu Shrine, Morioka
The shrine was established in 1062 but rebuilt by the Nanbu Clan in 1593 to be the protective shrine for Morioka Castle. The grounds contain many smaller shrines at which you can pray or make offerings. One such temple invites you to grab a mini-fishing rod to capture a papier mâché fish containing your fortune message. 100yen well spent even if you have no idea what the prediction says – let’s hope it was something to do with good luck! The elevated position of the shrine gives views across to the snow-capped Mount Iwate.
11. Above: Silver Temple (Wat Suphan), Chiang Mai
The Silver Temple is hidden down a small soi on Wualai St (the market-walking-street, active on a Saturday night). Once illuminated with strategically placed lights, thoughts of silver disappear as the ordination hall exterior radiates its hues in the night. The colours fade in and out leaving the actual silver ubosot looking like a poorer relation of itself in the dark, while it momentarily awaits its magic-coloured cloak. Sitting there for thirty minutes you have ample time to rank the effect of the colours. Violet wins, with blue, red and green trailing behind.
12. Above: Candle Festival, Ubon Ratchathani
The parade lasts for two hours plus, on both the Saturday and Sunday morning. I would imagine you set out from your village very early to assemble in the park at about 8 am. You likely had to hang around for an hour waiting for the truck or bus to pick you up at the end as well. At every traffic intersection your group had to stop while cars were waved through – still dancing on the spot. It was 35C and I was dripping just watching. Likely saturated by 9 am you’d be willing the water carriers and tissue bearers to make haste. Full marks to everyone involved in the spectacle and looking great until the end. Every reason to be proud up there in Ubon.
13. Above: Shinkansen
What can you say about the Shinkansen? It’s almost as if the Japanese designers are vying to outdo each other in the engineering beauty stakes. The station masters, with their little red flags, patrol the platforms telling you to stand behind the yellow line, but it’s a hopeless task as even Japanese travellers crowd round to video the trains arriving and departing. Once aboard, the refinement continues as you relax into your journey. If your ticket says Car 16, then you can be sure the train will stop exactly where Car 16 is painted on the platform. If a train is late, there is a public apology (something I’ve yet to witness). Get that rail pass now!
14. Above: Risshakuji (Yamadera) Temple
The popular name of Yamadera means ‘Mountain Temple’. Indeed, the thousand step climb, taking thirty-plus steady minutes, starts just one hundred metres away from the Yamadera JR Station. Founded in 860, the temple was an outpost of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. The way up is steep as you engage with the seemingly endless stone steps, but there are ‘gates’ or mini-shrines at different points where you can offer a prayer or simply take a breather. Once up at the top you can check out various old beechwood temple buildings as well as the observation deck which has views right across the valley.
15. Above: Hoonji Temple, Morioka
The temple was built in 1394 and moved to its current location some 200 years later. It is now a Zen training centre for monks as well as a place for ‘sitting meditation’ for the public. The serene temple grounds lead to the Rakando building (statues hall) which houses 500 Rakans – these are Buddhist saints who have attained Nirvana, their effigies stacked in neat rows all around. The statues were made in Kyoto, each sculpted with a different pose and expression. Together, all the statues represent the celestial world – while looking at them you are advised to stay silent as one should in the way of Zen.
The temple was built in 1394 and moved to its current location some 200 years later. It is now a Zen training centre for monks as well as a place for ‘sitting meditation’ for the public. The serene temple grounds lead to the Rakando building (statues hall) which houses 500 Rakans – these are Buddhist saints who have attained Nirvana, their effigies stacked in neat rows all around. The statues were made in Kyoto, each sculpted with a different pose and expression. Together, all the statues represent the celestial world – while looking at them you are advised to stay silent as one should in the way of Zen.
16. Above: Cherry Tree Splitting Rock, Morioka
The Sakura tree that clefts the rock (or grew in the rock’s cleft) basks in the crowd’s admiration, as well it might, being 350-400 years old. Did it really split the rock, or did it just happen to grow in the large crack? Well, it is named confidently enough! It now sits on the lawn in front or the District Courthouse which is a less than regal setting on a busy main road, but handy for the bus drop-off as folks take the obligatory three shots before continuing on their way.
The Sakura tree that clefts the rock (or grew in the rock’s cleft) basks in the crowd’s admiration, as well it might, being 350-400 years old. Did it really split the rock, or did it just happen to grow in the large crack? Well, it is named confidently enough! It now sits on the lawn in front or the District Courthouse which is a less than regal setting on a busy main road, but handy for the bus drop-off as folks take the obligatory three shots before continuing on their way.
17. Above: City Pillar, Bangkok
City Pillars in Thai towns mark the original settlement centre. This one attracts crowds, particularly at the beginning of the new year, in order to make merit and pray for good fortune in life. Amongst the rituals, devotees say set prayers while tying a silk scarf round a replica pillar or presenting garlands in front of one of the shrines. There are queues as people line up to take part, so it doesn’t take long before the garlands pile up and the scarves envelop the pillars. Attendants therefore regularly take away the offerings in their trolleys. Round the back I noticed a group of ladies re-folding the scarves and refreshing the garlands to be recycled and used anew. A regular operation behind the screens ensures that the constant stream of folks is well supplied.
City Pillars in Thai towns mark the original settlement centre. This one attracts crowds, particularly at the beginning of the new year, in order to make merit and pray for good fortune in life. Amongst the rituals, devotees say set prayers while tying a silk scarf round a replica pillar or presenting garlands in front of one of the shrines. There are queues as people line up to take part, so it doesn’t take long before the garlands pile up and the scarves envelop the pillars. Attendants therefore regularly take away the offerings in their trolleys. Round the back I noticed a group of ladies re-folding the scarves and refreshing the garlands to be recycled and used anew. A regular operation behind the screens ensures that the constant stream of folks is well supplied.
18. Above: Flower Festival Parade, Chiang Mai
What an absolutely stunning spectacle the Saturday morning parade in February is. It stretches so far back, alongside the moats and city walls that inevitable gaps appear between the floats or marchers. They also stop for a breather now and again, so fair enough. The range of fabulous costumes and variety of entries makes one think of them being the tip of many icebergs, with months of labour supporting them – design committees. seamstresses, choreographers, band leaders, float teams. Plus, of course, all those hours of practice. More power to the lot of them and full credit to all those folks that you don’t see making a splash on the Saturday morning canvas.
What an absolutely stunning spectacle the Saturday morning parade in February is. It stretches so far back, alongside the moats and city walls that inevitable gaps appear between the floats or marchers. They also stop for a breather now and again, so fair enough. The range of fabulous costumes and variety of entries makes one think of them being the tip of many icebergs, with months of labour supporting them – design committees. seamstresses, choreographers, band leaders, float teams. Plus, of course, all those hours of practice. More power to the lot of them and full credit to all those folks that you don’t see making a splash on the Saturday morning canvas.
19. Above: Hakkoda Ropeway, Aomori
The ropeway station is a 50-minute bus ride from Aomori. In the main ski season you might wait an hour for a gondola but in late April there was no queue. Lone skiers were amongst the crowd though. The gondola with a 101 person capacity dawdles up the slope (thankfully) before depositing you at the observation point. From there you can follow trails for 30 or 60 minutes or even four hours to the peaks if you are up for it. Discretion was the better part of valour on this occasion as the trails were covered in snow and my trusty Vans didn’t seem to be the most sensible of options. In the distance Mt Iwaki’s imposing presence grabs one’s attention, as does the view down to the bay surrounding Aomori.
The ropeway station is a 50-minute bus ride from Aomori. In the main ski season you might wait an hour for a gondola but in late April there was no queue. Lone skiers were amongst the crowd though. The gondola with a 101 person capacity dawdles up the slope (thankfully) before depositing you at the observation point. From there you can follow trails for 30 or 60 minutes or even four hours to the peaks if you are up for it. Discretion was the better part of valour on this occasion as the trails were covered in snow and my trusty Vans didn’t seem to be the most sensible of options. In the distance Mt Iwaki’s imposing presence grabs one’s attention, as does the view down to the bay surrounding Aomori.
20. Above: Takayama Inari Shrine, Aomori Prefecture
The 1,000 Torii gates which weave their way up the carefully landscaped hillside offer divine blessings to the rather specialised Gods of Good Harvest, Maritime Safety and Prosperous Business. Worth a visit then! But how to get to this remote shrine from Aomori is quite the challenge. It will encompass 1h 15m on a bus to Goshogawara, another bus for 45m to Jinjairigushi and then a taxi ride (or 40 minute walk). Oh, and there are several hours of gaps between buses if you get your timings wrong. Still, like a smear of lipstick across the sodden terrain, the shrine can't fail to impress. Standing there your harvest, maritime and business woes simply disappear. And, hopefully taking your bus woes with them too.
The 1,000 Torii gates which weave their way up the carefully landscaped hillside offer divine blessings to the rather specialised Gods of Good Harvest, Maritime Safety and Prosperous Business. Worth a visit then! But how to get to this remote shrine from Aomori is quite the challenge. It will encompass 1h 15m on a bus to Goshogawara, another bus for 45m to Jinjairigushi and then a taxi ride (or 40 minute walk). Oh, and there are several hours of gaps between buses if you get your timings wrong. Still, like a smear of lipstick across the sodden terrain, the shrine can't fail to impress. Standing there your harvest, maritime and business woes simply disappear. And, hopefully taking your bus woes with them too.