Gallery 11
Eleven-up...
1. Above: The Yellow Line, Bangkok
The Mass Transit Rail network in Bangkok (MRT) continues to expand with new lines serving the outer suburbs. The Yellow (to Samrong in the south) and Pink Lines (to Minburi in the east) are both elevated monorails, each being over 30 kms long and intersecting with other lines (some yet to be finished). The trains are driverless and cruise steadily at about 40 kph, with occasional 60 kph bursts. Everything is spick and span even if the experience is a little like a fairground ride. The word ‘trundle’ springs to mind as you bobble along between stops – for some reason, I was expecting a smooth, glide-like ride! Still, it is all part of the laudable, and very welcome, grand expansion of Bangkok’s public transport network.
The Mass Transit Rail network in Bangkok (MRT) continues to expand with new lines serving the outer suburbs. The Yellow (to Samrong in the south) and Pink Lines (to Minburi in the east) are both elevated monorails, each being over 30 kms long and intersecting with other lines (some yet to be finished). The trains are driverless and cruise steadily at about 40 kph, with occasional 60 kph bursts. Everything is spick and span even if the experience is a little like a fairground ride. The word ‘trundle’ springs to mind as you bobble along between stops – for some reason, I was expecting a smooth, glide-like ride! Still, it is all part of the laudable, and very welcome, grand expansion of Bangkok’s public transport network.
2. Above: Hmong New Year, Loei Province
The Hmong New Year is celebrated in January after the rice harvest. It is a time when ladies don traditional dress and play a game called Pov Pob or tossing the ball. Girls from the age of 15 can participate, the idea is that the game acts as an icebreaker to help find a suitable match: ‘Throw the ball and catch a husband.’ If you don’t strike lucky you can always try again next year. What happens to the very nice person who can’t catch for toffee? Seemingly an ornament was given to Ms Butterfingers, then the potential lover had to sing them a love song to win it back - although tape recorders were used in modern times - boo! As for the older folks here, apparently you play pov pob each year to remind yourself of that first time, when you fell in love.
The Hmong New Year is celebrated in January after the rice harvest. It is a time when ladies don traditional dress and play a game called Pov Pob or tossing the ball. Girls from the age of 15 can participate, the idea is that the game acts as an icebreaker to help find a suitable match: ‘Throw the ball and catch a husband.’ If you don’t strike lucky you can always try again next year. What happens to the very nice person who can’t catch for toffee? Seemingly an ornament was given to Ms Butterfingers, then the potential lover had to sing them a love song to win it back - although tape recorders were used in modern times - boo! As for the older folks here, apparently you play pov pob each year to remind yourself of that first time, when you fell in love.
3. Above: Osaka Castle
The castle which was constructed in 1583 is one of those iconic buildings in Japan with a history to match. The main keep is surrounded by sheer granite walls which disappear into the inner moat. There is also a ring of outer moats. Its early history featured a tumultuous set of pitched battles and sieges with armies of 200,000 or so, as it changed hands several times. There were periods of neglect and even WWII bombing before the restoration in 1997, with the keep being a concrete replica of the Edo-era original. Wandering round and looking at the ramparts you do get a strong sense of a seemingly impregnable fortification belonging to a seat of absolute power; one which allcomers clearly thought was worth fighting for.
The castle which was constructed in 1583 is one of those iconic buildings in Japan with a history to match. The main keep is surrounded by sheer granite walls which disappear into the inner moat. There is also a ring of outer moats. Its early history featured a tumultuous set of pitched battles and sieges with armies of 200,000 or so, as it changed hands several times. There were periods of neglect and even WWII bombing before the restoration in 1997, with the keep being a concrete replica of the Edo-era original. Wandering round and looking at the ramparts you do get a strong sense of a seemingly impregnable fortification belonging to a seat of absolute power; one which allcomers clearly thought was worth fighting for.
4. Above: Azalea Festival, Tokyo
The azalea garden at the Nezu Shrine in Tokyo is over three hundred years old. When the annual festival takes place, some 100-plus species of azalea are in full bloom. I would have raised an eyebrow if the figure had been 10 species, let alone 100. Expect plenty of food options as you wander round, as well as enthusiastic, thunderous drumming from the young bands. Well, it is a festival after all!
The azalea garden at the Nezu Shrine in Tokyo is over three hundred years old. When the annual festival takes place, some 100-plus species of azalea are in full bloom. I would have raised an eyebrow if the figure had been 10 species, let alone 100. Expect plenty of food options as you wander round, as well as enthusiastic, thunderous drumming from the young bands. Well, it is a festival after all!
5. Above: Silk Island (Koh Dach), Phnom Penh
Koh Dach is an island which lies between the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers. Most of the houses seemed to have individual looms set up downstairs, with the lady of the house propelling the shuttle rhythmically back and forth. The main silk centres are bigger, with looms lined up in rows, operated by widows, we were told, in some sort of cooperative. The mulberry trees grow on site and the caterpillar-cocoon-moth lifecycle is carefully managed to ensure a constant supply of silk thread. The sarong patterns and complicated loom operation are a thing to behold. The lady simultaneously operates foot pedals, pushes the shuttle across and changes the drawstrings that create the sequential wefts (I looked that bit up). And lo – some intricate gold pattern materialises against a blue background, tiny row at a time.
Koh Dach is an island which lies between the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers. Most of the houses seemed to have individual looms set up downstairs, with the lady of the house propelling the shuttle rhythmically back and forth. The main silk centres are bigger, with looms lined up in rows, operated by widows, we were told, in some sort of cooperative. The mulberry trees grow on site and the caterpillar-cocoon-moth lifecycle is carefully managed to ensure a constant supply of silk thread. The sarong patterns and complicated loom operation are a thing to behold. The lady simultaneously operates foot pedals, pushes the shuttle across and changes the drawstrings that create the sequential wefts (I looked that bit up). And lo – some intricate gold pattern materialises against a blue background, tiny row at a time.
6. Above: High-Rise, Phnom Penh
Twenty-odd years ago I cycled from Phnom Penh airport to the centre of town, having just flown in from Vietnam. As I recall, it was a leisurely 12 kms through fields and such, until clusters of buildings indicated that a town was about to appear. Now it is a six-lane highway flanked by car showrooms between flyovers – back then there was nothing to fly over! Nowhere is the city’s transformation more evident than down by the river, where countless high-rise developments reach for the sky. Chinese money, eh! There are still old colonial streets if you look for them, but it has to be said that outside of the city’s old core it is completely without charm, blighted even.
Twenty-odd years ago I cycled from Phnom Penh airport to the centre of town, having just flown in from Vietnam. As I recall, it was a leisurely 12 kms through fields and such, until clusters of buildings indicated that a town was about to appear. Now it is a six-lane highway flanked by car showrooms between flyovers – back then there was nothing to fly over! Nowhere is the city’s transformation more evident than down by the river, where countless high-rise developments reach for the sky. Chinese money, eh! There are still old colonial streets if you look for them, but it has to be said that outside of the city’s old core it is completely without charm, blighted even.
7. Above: Bali Green
The first thing you notice about the interior of the island of Bali is how green the landscape is. Rice, being a domesticated aquatic grass, sets the tone on centuries-old terraces carved out of the hillsides. As you pan your camera every frame contains a set of verdant shelves, so that you can hardly go wrong in capturing the landscape’s natural beauty. There should be a Pantone colour shade called, ‘Bali Green’, it really is that striking. I looked it up - there isn’t - although Pantone Spring Green 16-6264 TSX, isn’t a million miles away.
8. Above: where are they now?
When you look back at photos taken years ago, they can sometimes give pause for thought along the lines of, ‘I wonder where they are now?’ This is particularly the case with children such as these in Myanmar fourteen years ago. What lives might they be leading now, perhaps married with children of their own? Yet here they are, a moment in time captured to provide a later memory for me and occasionally pique interest which sets the mind wandering. That same instant for them though, was probably forever forgotten - within the hour most likely. It was ever thus with photography!
9. Above: Umeda Sky Building, Osaka
The Umeda Sky Building in Osaka consists of two towers 178 metres tall, connected by walkways on the 39th floor. You can go up to the viewing bridge there. The buildings are mostly offices with some residential units but there are restaurants in the basement which are housed in a replica Showa Period gourmet street. There are also outdoor gardens designed to bring the countryside to the heart of the city where you can relax in view of the powerful, albeit artificial waterfall.
10. Above: EmSphere Mall, Bangkok
‘You know what Bangkok could do with? Another shopping mall!’ Said absolutely nobody ever. Well, not since 1980 anyway. When you glide by on the Skytrain and look down to see some noisy construction going on around a cavernous town-sized hole, you think to yourself, ‘I wonder what that’s going to be?’ It is there for years, so you cease to note it on your daily commute. Then suddenly out of nowhere, ads appear all over telling you that a new mall to end all malls is about to hit town. And there it is – EmSphere! It is so big that there is a full-size IKEA inside it. Lost inside it. Never mind who is going to go to Paragon now, what about poor old EmQuartier and Emporium, just along the skywalk! Onwards and upwards, Bangkok!
11. Above: The Royal Palace, Phnom Penh
The Royal Palace is a comparatively recent building when you consider Cambodia’s long history, being constructed between 1866-70. The walled compound serves as the residence of the royal family, originally King Norodom but later King Sisowath who demolished the old buildings and replaced them in 1912. The Silver Pagoda and surrounding gardens are open to the public and at $10 per head must net thousands of dollars per day. There is something very calming about the palace, partly no doubt due to both the refined interiors and the tasteful Khmer style architecture, but also the soft yellow colouring throughout. In contrast, the bright yellow-brick road leading to the entrance announces that your visit is not going to be disappointing.
12. Above: Chao Phraya River, Bangkok
Bangkok’s, indeed, Thailand’s, main river is the Chao Phraya which officially begins at the confluence of the Mae Ping and Mae Nan some 375 kms inland (if you count the source as the beginning of the Mae Ping, it is over 1,200 kms long). By the time it gets to Bangkok it is of considerable size and width. It is a working river, so when you board your ferry to cross to the other side or commute up and down you are mindful of the water-traffic chuntering along in all directions. Zipping along if we are talking about the long-tail boats. There is something menacing about its dark, churning waters – not just because of the effluent and industrial waste therein, but also because collisions do happen! Always note where the life-vests are when you board.
13. Above: Nam Tok Sai Yok Noi, Kanchanaburi
The waterfall, Sai Yok Noi is just up the road from Kanchanaburi as you drive north towards Sangkhla Buri. Perhaps not as famous as the seven-tiered Erawan Falls to the north-east, it has a huge advantage for visitors: it is right next to the main road. Really right next to, as in park the car, cross the road and put your cossie on. Ever popular with local tourists, you can splash about in the plunge pools to your heart’s content, before mounting the slippery slopes for that family selfie.
14. Above: Lake Toya, Hokkaido
Lake Toya on the island of Hokkaido is a caldera or crater lake which formed 110,000 years ago. It is roughly circular with a circumference of some 10 kms. The Nakajima Islands in the middle of the lake are lava domes dating from 50,000 years ago and give the lake its picturesque appearance. The islands are uninhabited apart from wild animals and a summer museum for visitors. On the southern rim is Mt Usu, a still active volcano, which erupted recently in the year 2000. You can drive round the pretty lake or take the ropeway up to the Mt Usu Observatory for a windswept view down the coast or back towards the lake.
15. Above: Cycling, Mandalay
Talk about the best laid plans! The aim of this trip was to cycle from Mandalay to Bagan. The main obstacle was that it was April and a particularly stifling 45c during the day. Attempts to cycle before the sun came up were stymied by the constant power cuts which made it completely pitch-black. No streetlights, coupled with street signs in Burmese only and a complete lack of spoken English in the countryside, meant that I had no idea where I was. Eventually, leaving the bike at the airport behind the information counter was the only solution. I was surprised that it was still there when I got back. Win some-lose some! Pictured here: ‘Airport, airport?’ Point down road, which looks suspiciously unlike a highway that might lead to an international airport. Chap directs me towards the riverbank. Well, I did find the Irrawaddy at least.
Talk about the best laid plans! The aim of this trip was to cycle from Mandalay to Bagan. The main obstacle was that it was April and a particularly stifling 45c during the day. Attempts to cycle before the sun came up were stymied by the constant power cuts which made it completely pitch-black. No streetlights, coupled with street signs in Burmese only and a complete lack of spoken English in the countryside, meant that I had no idea where I was. Eventually, leaving the bike at the airport behind the information counter was the only solution. I was surprised that it was still there when I got back. Win some-lose some! Pictured here: ‘Airport, airport?’ Point down road, which looks suspiciously unlike a highway that might lead to an international airport. Chap directs me towards the riverbank. Well, I did find the Irrawaddy at least.
16. Above: Food Stalls in Japan
It is fascinating to wander down an arcade market and look at some of the foodstuffs on offer. You wouldn’t know where to start with some of the concoctions. ‘Could I have a dollop of that, please?’ Well, it did look like it was being scooped up with a trowel. Yet for local folks it is a bread-and-butter daily transaction as it were. All belonging to a childhood, household, and world, completely unfamiliar to you. It’s the same with most cuisines, especially when you shift continents! Helpful Japan does think of you though, things that you might recognise and want to sample may also be labelled in English.
It is fascinating to wander down an arcade market and look at some of the foodstuffs on offer. You wouldn’t know where to start with some of the concoctions. ‘Could I have a dollop of that, please?’ Well, it did look like it was being scooped up with a trowel. Yet for local folks it is a bread-and-butter daily transaction as it were. All belonging to a childhood, household, and world, completely unfamiliar to you. It’s the same with most cuisines, especially when you shift continents! Helpful Japan does think of you though, things that you might recognise and want to sample may also be labelled in English.
17. Above: Chiang Rai Drive
Phu Chi Fa sits on a mountain top that looks down on the Mekong River and Laos. This mountain range marks the border with Thailand and is famous for its sunset views. When you drive west to Chiang Rai you must first descend these ridges then cross the valley floor before ascending a parallel range. Once over these hills there is a clear, flat run to Chiang Rai. The clue on Google Maps is the degree of blue squiggles in the main road for the first hour of the drive. You need full concentration as you twist and turn round the switchbacks and down through the clouds, then back up into them again after crossing the valley floor. No conversation or distractions please! But great fun all the same.
Phu Chi Fa sits on a mountain top that looks down on the Mekong River and Laos. This mountain range marks the border with Thailand and is famous for its sunset views. When you drive west to Chiang Rai you must first descend these ridges then cross the valley floor before ascending a parallel range. Once over these hills there is a clear, flat run to Chiang Rai. The clue on Google Maps is the degree of blue squiggles in the main road for the first hour of the drive. You need full concentration as you twist and turn round the switchbacks and down through the clouds, then back up into them again after crossing the valley floor. No conversation or distractions please! But great fun all the same.
18. Above: Central Market, Phnom Penh
The delightful Art Deco indoor market was constructed in 1937 on the site of the original market in what was then Chinatown. After much neglect the French Development Agency funded its renovation in 2009 to the tune of $4.2 million. The concrete foundations and supports were strengthened and all were finished in the original yellow. Inside are jewellery and electronics showcases, while in the wings are the usual wet market stalls, as well as flowers, fruit, and clothes. Compared to Ben Thanh in Saigon it is an extremely soft sell walking through, with no more than a polite suggestion to look at the wares.
The delightful Art Deco indoor market was constructed in 1937 on the site of the original market in what was then Chinatown. After much neglect the French Development Agency funded its renovation in 2009 to the tune of $4.2 million. The concrete foundations and supports were strengthened and all were finished in the original yellow. Inside are jewellery and electronics showcases, while in the wings are the usual wet market stalls, as well as flowers, fruit, and clothes. Compared to Ben Thanh in Saigon it is an extremely soft sell walking through, with no more than a polite suggestion to look at the wares.
19. Above: Oldies in Japan
With an ageing population that has been evident for quite some time, Japan has long had the opportunity to address challenges within the community. Post-retirement age many are allocated hours so that they can continue to work part-time to keep the stimulation of a daily routine going, even if their productivity is anyone’s guess. Many take up a hobby, typically: rambling in the countryside, photography, painting, crafts or learning English. The local community centres are never short of volunteers for whatever event is coming up. So, you don’t have to go far when out and about before you bump into folks enjoying their golden years.
With an ageing population that has been evident for quite some time, Japan has long had the opportunity to address challenges within the community. Post-retirement age many are allocated hours so that they can continue to work part-time to keep the stimulation of a daily routine going, even if their productivity is anyone’s guess. Many take up a hobby, typically: rambling in the countryside, photography, painting, crafts or learning English. The local community centres are never short of volunteers for whatever event is coming up. So, you don’t have to go far when out and about before you bump into folks enjoying their golden years.
20. Above: Tuol Sleng, S-21, Phnom Penh
I had been to S-21 primary school converted into a Khmer Rouge interrogation centre a couple of times before. That didn’t stop it from being just as harrowing this time around. Particularly haunting are the photographs, each one a person, and most with a story that will never be told, but all with a shared tragic ending. Every room in the building played host to unimaginable wickedness. Pol Pot conceded later, ‘We made mistakes…’ glibly glossing over pure evil! Four children survived there; two of them were standing in the compound grounds, the elder one able to describe in English his memory as a nine-year old when they took away his mother and father.
I had been to S-21 primary school converted into a Khmer Rouge interrogation centre a couple of times before. That didn’t stop it from being just as harrowing this time around. Particularly haunting are the photographs, each one a person, and most with a story that will never be told, but all with a shared tragic ending. Every room in the building played host to unimaginable wickedness. Pol Pot conceded later, ‘We made mistakes…’ glibly glossing over pure evil! Four children survived there; two of them were standing in the compound grounds, the elder one able to describe in English his memory as a nine-year old when they took away his mother and father.