Cholon in Vietnamese translates as ‘big market’ and it was here that the Chinese Hoa established a community in the 16th century. It is considered to be the largest Chinatown in the world in terms of area. Driving over there from the centre of town you soon realise how big a city Saigon is; padding the streets, you also get how extensive Cholon itself is. Binh Tay Market is much more workaday than Benh Thanh, workanight as well by the look of it. The temples, effused with scented smoke and dappled light, as well as the tightly packed old streets, still give a strong sense of the original community.

​But, as with the rest of Saigon, even though they are now surrounded by throbbing streets, office blocks and branded retail outlets, they do seem to be just getting on with things. As you do in Vietnam! 

Above and Below: Ba Thien Hau Temple, dedicated to Mazu, Goddess of Sea.

Above: Phu Dinh Street, which featured in the 1992 French film, The Lover.
Below: Hao Sy Phung, a two-tiered alleyway that captures old Cholon.